Archive for the ‘Helpful Hints and Tips’ Category

What Size Extension Cord Do I Need?

Tuesday, July 27th, 2010

Ever use a power tool pulled into an extension cord on a project and it not work right. To test it, you plug the power tool directly into the wall outlet and it works fine. What’s this? Another bad extension cord? Maybe, maybe not! You could just be using the wrong extension cord.

Extension cords are measured by their length in feet and the size of wire used in their construction measured in units referred to as the wire’s gauge (the larger the number the smaller the wire). Both of these numbers work together to determine how much power (measured in amperes, amps or amperage and most commonly represented by the letter “A”) can be safely provided to the equipment pulled into the extension cord. The longer the extension cord and/or the smaller the wire, the less power can flow through it. If you use an extension cord that is not rated to provide the amperage needed to properly run the equipment attached to it, the extension cord can cause equipment on the extension cord to not function properly, cause damage to the equipment, cause breakers to trip and cause a fire hazard.

Below is a table to help you determine which extension cord you need for the job. First determine how long of an extension cord you need. If you are working 20 feet from an outlet, use the shortest extension you can based on the table below. Longer extension cords just waste electricity. Next, determine how much amperage the piece of equipment you are using needs to function properly. This is usually found on a sticker or metal plate on the piece of equipment itself (if not, look in your owner’s manual). Using these two numbers (distance and amperage), you can use the table below to determine the size of the wire needed inside the extension cord to have your equipment function properly.

Extension cord length Amperage Required
0-2 amps 2-5 amps 5-7 amps 7-10 amps 10-12 amps 12-15 amps
25 ft. 16 ga. 16 ga. 16 ga. 16 ga. 14 ga. 14 ga.
50 ft. 16 ga. 16 ga. 16 ga. 14 ga. 14 ga. 12 ga.
100 ft. 16 ga. 16 ga. 14 ga. 12 ga. 12 ga. 10 ga.
150 ft. 16 ga. 14 ga. 12 ga. 12 ga. 10 ga. -
200 ft. 14 ga. 14 ga. 12 ga. 10 ga. - -
Table courtesy of Planet Christmas

Think of it as a hose. The bigger the hose, the more water will flow. If you need a 50ft extension cord to provide a total of 6.5amps, you need to use a 16gauge or larger extension cord (a larger gauge means a smaller number, in this case, 14, 12 or 10 gauge). Extension cords are expensive, matching the right extension cord for your needs could save you quite a bit of money!

Tutorial: Cutting/Priming/Gluing PVC Pipe

Friday, July 16th, 2010

Cut PVC pipe


A cut piece of PVC pipe before it has been cleaned up

The first thing to remember about cutting and fitting PVC pipe is that you don’t have to be perfect to do a good job. Here are some things to keep in mind:

  • Keep your cuts as straight and perpendicular as possible
  • Clean up the cuts (both inside and out) to produce a smooth beveled edge
  • Prime/clean all surfaces that will be exposed to PVC glue

Elbow Primed


Elbow primed and ready to glue

  • Glue only one of the two pieces you are joining
  • Join the two pieces together QUICKLY, you have VERY limited time
  • If possible, twist the two pieces a quarter of a turn to distribute the glue but make sure to have the two pieces in their final alignment before you stop twisting
  • Plan the entire path for your finished pipe before you glue it
  • Measure each cut and be methodical
  • If you don’t feel comfortable cutting and gluing PVC pipe, always remember PVC is cheap. Practice, practice, practice!
  • To produce a clean looking joint, glue the coupler/elbow and not the pipe

Pipe Glued First


Pipe glued (not the elbow)

Coupler Glued First


Coupler glued (not the pipe)

Both the PVC primer and glue usually come with an applicator in the lid. Brush off the excess primer/glue and apply with a continuous, circular motion going around the outside or inside of the PVC pipe/connector as needed. With a little practice, you will be able to apply PVC glue or primer very quickly (this is helpful when you start gluing). Also, by using Purple Primer to clean and prep your PVC pipe and connectors, you will be able to see where you need to apply more since the entire surface will be evenly purple in color when done properly.

Applying too much primer is not a big deal but usually you don’t need to go any further than 1 inch from the end of the PVC pipe/connector. However, too much glue might cause you some problems since the thicker the application of glue, the longer it takes to properly cure. A couple passes around the surface to be glued with a properly coated applicator is usually enough and should only take a couple of seconds to apply.

When you have glued the PVC connector and are putting the two pieces together, move quickly, pressing firmly, and twist the two pieces into proper alignment before stopping. Remember, you only have a few seconds to do this. If you make a mistake, cut it out and redo it. Trying to pry the pieces apart or twist them will only crack the PVC causing a real nightmare (the entire section of cracked PVC pipe needs to be replaced not just the area effected as the crack weakens the whole piece). If you do manage to get two pieces of PVC apart before the glue completely hardens, the two pieces are ruined and can not be used again (PVC glue causes PVC to actually melt and deform).

I know some of this is scary but don’t let it put you off. Anyone with a little practice and patience can glue PVC like a professional. In this case, practice does make perfect!

Tools required:

  • Tape measure
  • Saw to cut PVC pipe (hack saw, reciprocating saw, etc.)
  • Box opener or file to smooth edges on cut PVC pipe
  • PVC glue (I prefer Rain-R-Shine PVC Glue)
  • PVC primer (I prefer Purple Primer)

Lessons Learned:

  • Take your time and think through the project (How will everything fit together?)
  • Buy more PVC pipe and fittings than you need (you can always take it back later)
  • Practice cutting/priming/gluing the PVC BEFORE you start assembling the finished product!

Links:

TV Remote Doesn’t Work Right

Tuesday, August 18th, 2009

All of us have had a problem with TV remotes from time to time. You have to press the buttons several times before the TV responds or you have to aim it directly at the TV before it works properly. Well, after having several neighbors ask me about this, I decided to tell the world a few things to try to get your TV remote functioning properly again.

Physical Issues

The majority of the time, the problem is a physical one…something is physically wrong with the TV remote. The most common problem is bad batteries.

Replace your batteries – The first thing your should do, if a properly functioning remote starts acting up, is to replace the batteries with good, high quality alkaline batteries. Many of today’s TV remotes perform many functions and can drain batteries quickly, especially if you have to hold down the buttons for long periods of time. Backlighted remotes will also drain batteries quickly. With this heavy drain, standard batteries and rechargeable batteries don’t last near as long as good, fresh alkaline batteries.

Clean the remote and TV – Another common problem is a dirty remote. Keep your remote clean! A dirty remote will cause buttons to stick or just not function. Please see your owner’s manual on how to do this properly.

TV remotes work using light (in this case it is infrared light so you can’t see it) to send information from the TV remote to your TV, DVD players, etc. When the TV, DVD player, etc. receives the information from the remote, it decodes it to figure out what you want done. So keep the plastic window in the front of the remote clean so all of the infrared light gets to the TV. The other end, that most people forget about, is the TV, DVD player or Tivo itself. Keep it’s infrared window clean as well. Check your owner’s manual for the location of each infrared window and how to clean them properly. And please take off the pieces of tape that were put on at the factory to protect the remote and the TV! They may look clear but they interfere with the infrared signal strength.

Check out the remote itself – Look the remote over. Is it physically damaged? If so, you might consider replacing it. Remotes can take a lot of abuse but they can break and should be replaced if they are too badly damaged. Back in the day, remotes were expensive or hard to find but today they can be had for under $20.

Environmental

Believe it or not, infrared TV remotes are affected by the environment that they are in:

TV placement – How you have the TV, DVD or Tivo setup could effect the infrared remote that you are trying to use with it. Check your owner’s manual for the location of the infrared receiver window that your remote is trying to talk to. Now hold your remote like you normally would and put your head close to the remote. Can you actually see the infrared receiver window clearly? Many people put their TV, DVD or Tivo too far back on a shelf or put DVDs or cords in front of the infrared receiver window causing the infrared signal to have to bounce of something to be seen. Putting the infrared receiver window in plain sight will improve your remote’s performance!

Lighting – With everyone trying to save money these days, many people are switching over to fluorescent bulbs from incandescent bulbs (normal light bulbs). This can be bad for your infrared remote. When trying to use an infrared remote in a room illuminated by fluorescent bulbs, the fluorescent light will cause interference for the infrared signal. This causes the infrared signal to be weakened or garbled, so either way, the TV has a hard time figuring out what’s gone on. Either turn off the fluorescent lights or replace them with normal light bulbs in this room.

Room itself – Yes, the room itself can effect your infrared remote! Dark walls and cloth drapes/curtains will not reflect the infrared signal from your remote very well (if at all). If your entertainment center/TV isn’t in a lightly colored room with few drapes/curtains, be sure to aim the remote directly at the infrared receiver window on your TV, DVD or Tivo.

Conclusion

In short, to get the best out of your TV remote, give it fresh alkaline batteries, keep it clean, take good care of it and keep the infrared receiver window in plain sight.