<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments for D.I.Y. by Example</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.diybyexample.info/comments/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.diybyexample.info</link>
	<description>Helping you with life’s “little” projects</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 10 Nov 2011 03:09:54 -0500</lastBuildDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4</generator>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
		<item>
		<title>Comment on Upgrading to Iron Balusters by Kim Kelley</title>
		<link>http://www.diybyexample.info/2009/08/upgrading-to-iron-balusters/comment-page-1/#comment-129</link>
		<dc:creator>Kim Kelley</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 10 Nov 2011 03:09:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.diybyexample.info/?p=14#comment-129</guid>
		<description>I have to say, this was the most helpful of all websites that I found in the process of preparing to replace our wooden baulisters of our staircase.
We have a front entry and rear entry staircase which meets in the middle of a common landing before the long staircase to the second floor. 
As expected every project always grows into a larger one, or at least it always seems to in this household.  I started with the tearout of the old baulisters of the wooden ones. The builder had used caulk on each of the baulisters so when I tore them out if of course pulled the paint off. So the first thing at had after removing the old ones was to sand and paint.  
In the placement of the new iron baulisters we also ended up cutting a quarter inch off of the end of the baulisters.  We did not want to drill any deeper hole in the handrail for fear of splitting or having to replace that also.  I added only the 1 inch in addition to the measurement from rail to floor.  Our holes in the floor were also very deep and we used plugs cut from the old baulisters to make the depth 1/2 &quot;.  If we still had holes too deep a dime or two made a perfect lift for the new iron baulisters.  I think we actually used a role of dimes to fill in.  
We did not have any mis-cuts due to the fact we I had so much good information from the internet.  I will say that aftergetting all of the bauisters glued in place ( we did not use shoes on the top of the baulisters) only shoes on the bottom.  My husband had a great idea, for any areas on the underside of the rail where a bit of the glue was light colored, he suggested using a min wax paint pen for furniture and it was perfect.  It looks great and this website was a wonderful find for us.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have to say, this was the most helpful of all websites that I found in the process of preparing to replace our wooden baulisters of our staircase.<br />
We have a front entry and rear entry staircase which meets in the middle of a common landing before the long staircase to the second floor.<br />
As expected every project always grows into a larger one, or at least it always seems to in this household.  I started with the tearout of the old baulisters of the wooden ones. The builder had used caulk on each of the baulisters so when I tore them out if of course pulled the paint off. So the first thing at had after removing the old ones was to sand and paint.<br />
In the placement of the new iron baulisters we also ended up cutting a quarter inch off of the end of the baulisters.  We did not want to drill any deeper hole in the handrail for fear of splitting or having to replace that also.  I added only the 1 inch in addition to the measurement from rail to floor.  Our holes in the floor were also very deep and we used plugs cut from the old baulisters to make the depth 1/2 &#8220;.  If we still had holes too deep a dime or two made a perfect lift for the new iron baulisters.  I think we actually used a role of dimes to fill in.<br />
We did not have any mis-cuts due to the fact we I had so much good information from the internet.  I will say that aftergetting all of the bauisters glued in place ( we did not use shoes on the top of the baulisters) only shoes on the bottom.  My husband had a great idea, for any areas on the underside of the rail where a bit of the glue was light colored, he suggested using a min wax paint pen for furniture and it was perfect.  It looks great and this website was a wonderful find for us.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Upgrading to Iron Balusters by Mike Bennett</title>
		<link>http://www.diybyexample.info/2009/08/upgrading-to-iron-balusters/comment-page-1/#comment-127</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike Bennett</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Sep 2011 05:14:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.diybyexample.info/?p=14#comment-127</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the great info; gave me the knowledge to tackle the project on my own.  Here are a few of the lessons I learned.  #1 - Each 50 mL cartridge of epoxy glued 10 to 12 balusters.  Make sure you order enough.  #2 - Sometimes the shoe doesn&#039;t fit over the blaster.  Make sure you order enough extra in case this is a problem.  I did 171 balusters and 3 were so big enough that I couldn&#039;t find a show to fit over them.  #3 - The epoxy glue sets up fast.  Have all balusters cut to size and double-check that they fit.  Have everything ready BEFORE you start with the glue.  It&#039;ll make things go smoothly.  #4 - I installed a little differently.  I drilled out the bottom hole to a depth of 3.5&quot; and cut my balusters so I could get it in place and then push it up into the hole in the hand rail.  This meant that about 1.5&quot; of metal was in the top hole and about 1.5&quot; was in the bottom when I finished.  I wanted metal inside the holes cause it seemed like it&#039;d be nice and sturdy.  I didn&#039;t fill the bottom hole, just squirted epoxy in the space around the baluster once it was in place and held it in place with the show.  Seemed to have worked cause the balusters are very sturdy.  
Thanks again for the great info.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the great info; gave me the knowledge to tackle the project on my own.  Here are a few of the lessons I learned.  #1 &#8211; Each 50 mL cartridge of epoxy glued 10 to 12 balusters.  Make sure you order enough.  #2 &#8211; Sometimes the shoe doesn&#8217;t fit over the blaster.  Make sure you order enough extra in case this is a problem.  I did 171 balusters and 3 were so big enough that I couldn&#8217;t find a show to fit over them.  #3 &#8211; The epoxy glue sets up fast.  Have all balusters cut to size and double-check that they fit.  Have everything ready BEFORE you start with the glue.  It&#8217;ll make things go smoothly.  #4 &#8211; I installed a little differently.  I drilled out the bottom hole to a depth of 3.5&#8243; and cut my balusters so I could get it in place and then push it up into the hole in the hand rail.  This meant that about 1.5&#8243; of metal was in the top hole and about 1.5&#8243; was in the bottom when I finished.  I wanted metal inside the holes cause it seemed like it&#8217;d be nice and sturdy.  I didn&#8217;t fill the bottom hole, just squirted epoxy in the space around the baluster once it was in place and held it in place with the show.  Seemed to have worked cause the balusters are very sturdy.<br />
Thanks again for the great info.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Outdoor Christmas Lights by admin</title>
		<link>http://www.diybyexample.info/2009/08/outdoor-christmas-lights/comment-page-1/#comment-115</link>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Dec 2010 23:00:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.diybyexample.info/?p=48#comment-115</guid>
		<description>JD,
  Run a separate extension cord to each set of three strands of lights.  You will have several cords at the bottom of your tree but you won&#039;t have power issues.  Best of luck and happy holidays.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>JD,<br />
  Run a separate extension cord to each set of three strands of lights.  You will have several cords at the bottom of your tree but you won&#8217;t have power issues.  Best of luck and happy holidays.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Outdoor Christmas Lights by JD</title>
		<link>http://www.diybyexample.info/2009/08/outdoor-christmas-lights/comment-page-1/#comment-114</link>
		<dc:creator>JD</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Dec 2010 04:58:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.diybyexample.info/?p=48#comment-114</guid>
		<description>I wrapped my oak tree with a continuous strand of lights. About 10 strands were connected together and plugged into one extension cord. It lit beautifully for about 45 seconds and then all of the lights went off. I suppose I violated your helpful hint above? How do you get them to reach about 15 feet into tree without connecting more than three? 100 light mini lights don&#039;t go far when wrapped around a mature tree. Help.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I wrapped my oak tree with a continuous strand of lights. About 10 strands were connected together and plugged into one extension cord. It lit beautifully for about 45 seconds and then all of the lights went off. I suppose I violated your helpful hint above? How do you get them to reach about 15 feet into tree without connecting more than three? 100 light mini lights don&#8217;t go far when wrapped around a mature tree. Help.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Comment on Upgrading to Iron Balusters by Karin</title>
		<link>http://www.diybyexample.info/2009/08/upgrading-to-iron-balusters/comment-page-1/#comment-107</link>
		<dc:creator>Karin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Oct 2010 01:18:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.diybyexample.info/?p=14#comment-107</guid>
		<description>Thank you soooo much for the instructions....especially the helpful hints that you KNOW no one remembers to add on those other DIY sites.  Cross your fingers, I&#039;m going to give it a shot!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you soooo much for the instructions&#8230;.especially the helpful hints that you KNOW no one remembers to add on those other DIY sites.  Cross your fingers, I&#8217;m going to give it a shot!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
